Sailormilan2 Posted June 17, 2011 Report Share Posted June 17, 2011 To finish up a gun I started last year, here is what I have done. Initial thread: http://www.sporterizing.com/index.php?showtopic=8139&view=&hl=trunk gun&fromsearch=1 Screwed the barrel on, timed it, and headspaced it. Sent the bolt off for forging. Which is much cheaper than welding on a new handle. $56 vs $100 -$150. I then parked the action in homemade black park solution and bedded it. I used a Butler Creek made injection molded stock, as I wanted something fairly indestructable. But the stock has two problems. #1. Forearm end is too flexable. #2. Forearm has two large "voids" to make it lighter(which causes the flex). These voids will collect dust and water. To fix that, I filled the voids with styrofoam, cut to fit. Then ran a barrel channel scraper down the channel to cut a groove in the styrofoam. To bed everything, I wrapped the barrel in two layers of black electrical tape to give clearance. First bedding the receiver, then the barrel channel. The bedding material was standard 30 minute Hobby Epoxy(much cheaper than AcraGlas), filled with chopped fiberglass cloth for strength. A laminated wooden stock from Richards MicroFit might have been a better choice, but this one was much cheaper. The mag box was lengthened by grinding/filing the interior walls of the front and back ends. Now 30-06 length round will fit. Receiver has been D&T'd for a once piece base. Though, I am undecided as to which one to use. B-Square is lighter, but harder to find since it is no longer made. But, it blocks a large portion of the recevier opening, so it will need to have bunch of metal in the middle milled out. Easy to do, since it is aluminum. I may do a 4th hole and use 2 Weaver bases. I am leaning to this, since it will allow me reloading using stripper clips. I prefer Weaver style rings, as I don't think they lose zero as much if one has to remove them. I still need to install a trigger. BC stocks( this one is marked Charles Daly) are cut for the factory Interarms sliding safety, rather than the pivoting style of most after market. The receiver is unusual, in that the charger clip hump/guide has been modifed from standard Mauser dimensions to 1903 Springfield stripper dimension. I left it on, so now I can reload much faster if I don't have scope on it. Though, I am considering drilling the receiver for receiver sights, which would be a much better/faster sight. As it is now, it weighs 7 lbs, 2 oz without the front sight or trigger. Costs: Receiver.................$49 Barrel....................$30 Triggerguard...........$50 Bolt.......................$50 Bolt forging.............$56 Sporter bolt shroud...$30 Stock.....................$40 I could have saved a bit of money by sticking with the military trigger, triggerguard, and bolt shroud and just installing a low scope safety. But, I had the TG and bolt shroud laying around. I need to repark the receiver (since I had to grind on the right rail for the forged bolt handle to work) and park the sling swivel studs as well has the front sight ramp and hood . I may park the bolt at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8uck5nort Posted June 17, 2011 Report Share Posted June 17, 2011 Looking good. Wonder how it shoots when you get it all put together? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sailormilan2 Posted June 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2011 Well, if it shoots as good as my son's Mauser it will be a good one. My son has a commercial Mauser made by the Firearms Co of England, same people who made the barrel that I used on this build. His rifle is a very good shooting rifle. I slugged all the bores of my 30-06s, and those two barrels have the tightest bores, with the widest lands. Tighter than the bore on my Mk X in 30-06. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyjim Posted June 18, 2011 Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 not to bad, that will make a good truck, loaner rifle. how do you like that stock after fixing the forearm? numrich has them on sale right now & i was thinking of picking up a couple of them for test mules since my wooden mule stocks are getting pretty rough Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sailormilan2 Posted June 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 There still is some flex to the stock. Not as much as there was. I wish I had couple of piece of graphite arrow shaft. I would have bedded those in the stock forearm first, to stiffen it up. For target testing, I am going to use a spare Mk X stock I have laying around. Simple bed job, then off to the range to test it. I am curious to see what it will do with the Garand loads and reloads. Garand ammo is loaded down a bit compared to regular commercial and reloaded ammo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.