Doble Troble Posted August 27, 2005 Report Share Posted August 27, 2005 I've modified an original 24/47 for scope use. It only took about 15 min (although I could clean it up so it looks really nice - but that's not what this rifle is for). Anyway, this was actually easier than those pot metal safeties that you get on EBay, and it works a lot better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MorgansBoss Posted August 27, 2005 Report Share Posted August 27, 2005 Once you get it cleaned up - maybe checkered or incised for better grip - give it the casenit treatment. Once annealed the engagement surface can wear fast. BTW - Nice job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doble Troble Posted August 28, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2005 The two top pix are immediately after forging. The bottom pic is the cleaned-up and installed safety. Yes, you definitely have to reharden - I found out as the safety became harder and harder to engage. When I took it apart the camming surface was buggered. I filed/stoned it back smooth, heated to cherry red with a torch heavy on acetylene, and quenched with water. It appears to be hard as glass now. The underside is left unfinished and provides good grip, but filing in some checkerin would be a classy and functional touch. It's now cleaned up a bit more to square up the flaring at the end. I think I've just settled into my standard Mauser safety for scoped rifles. You guys should give this a try before you buy an after market safety. It might be just what you're looking for and already pre-fit (unless you forget to harden and have to debugger). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted August 28, 2005 Report Share Posted August 28, 2005 A friend of mine does the same thing only he welds a bit on there. Looks a bit more like the FN style safety bit of course requires more work. I think the interesting thing about his making them is he'd never seen nor heard about the FN style. Yours looks good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doble Troble Posted August 28, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2005 Thanks, guys. I can see where welding a bit to replace lost material on the guide that engages the rib on the shroud would be useful. Forging causes most of this to bend up as the flag comes down - you can see this on the top two pix. Then you have to grind it off, and you lose a chunk of the "U". There's enough left that it still holds the guide, but the fit isn't as good as the original - there's more room for slop. You could weld on material to fix this. I think the flag could be ground thinner too. I bet my next one will look a lot different. Man, this is a lot of fun! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clark Posted August 28, 2005 Report Share Posted August 28, 2005 I have had thought like that, but I have not done anything. Thanks for posting that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonthehunted Posted August 28, 2005 Report Share Posted August 28, 2005 can you post a pic in the up position, just want to see it, you have got me very interested Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montea6b Posted August 28, 2005 Report Share Posted August 28, 2005 DT, As always I am impressed by your ingenuity and resourcefulness! I tend to daydream, you just do it. Nice work, and thanks for posting an innovative and inexpensive alternate solution. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MorgansBoss Posted August 28, 2005 Report Share Posted August 28, 2005 The first safety I ever modified was this route. I ended up with a useless stub too short to work properly plus I ground it too thin and it eventually broke after hardening so I abandoned the idea. I've since kinda gotten stuck in a rut modifying originals to Buler-style (right-side) safeties. The kicker is getting the notches just right to retain them. If I ever get time to get back to building another rifle I may give this a shot. It looks like the flag is hitting the "retaining pin hump" on the left side of the shroud - is it? It'd be an easy fix with a couple file strokes I know, but just curious. The biggest benefit I see is not having to notch the shroud or worry about those notches engaging just right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doble Troble Posted August 28, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2005 Here's some more pix. It wasn't broke, so I tried to fix it . I did manage to get rid of the slop by bending to straighten out a twist introduced by forging. I also forged it farther and starting further up the flag - right at the narrowest point defined by the U. This was easily done by securing in a vise, heating up the "U" cherry red and bending over with pliers. Much more control than with a big hammer. The final bend was about 35* arrived at through trial and error. I think this can be a quick and straight-forward modification: (1) forge the flag to flatten and lengthen - there are two thick parts - at the root and end of the flag, its important to get both of these thinned out for the bending in the next step; (2) secure the safety in a vise, heat the "U" cherry red and bend over with pliers about 35"; (3) test for fit and function - the U may need to be opened a bit with a file; (4) harden the engagement surfaces (only the engagement surfaces - so that the rest stays tough) by heating with acetylene rich flame and quench in water - kasenite is a good idea too; (5) clean-up by grinding, filing and sanding (obviously the one I've done would benefit from some more of this). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlecanoe Posted August 31, 2005 Report Share Posted August 31, 2005 DT, Instead of flattening the flag prior to heating and bending could opposing notches be filed with a small V shaped file? at the base of the flag? this would prepare the flag to be bent if enough metal could be left in between. It might not distort the shape as much still allowing an acceptible angle on the bend. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doble Troble Posted August 31, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2005 Steve, Yes, filing to guide bending is a great idea. You will need to anneal first as the entire piece is hardened. It's also important to gain some length, but this could be accomplished by welding on material. Now that I've been mulling my original hack for a few days I think it would be best to forge the end of the flag flat and then file or grind the thick part of the root (that contains the "U") thin prior to bending. Filing at this point would be an exellent way to be more precise with the bend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fritz Posted August 31, 2005 Report Share Posted August 31, 2005 Welding on is advisable. Here is one I did using a piece of old checkered buttplate material. I believe I got several out of that one buttplate--- fritz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonthehunted Posted August 31, 2005 Report Share Posted August 31, 2005 great, more ideas!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doble Troble Posted August 31, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2005 Thanks, fritz! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlecanoe Posted August 31, 2005 Report Share Posted August 31, 2005 I Like the idea of keeping the original safety and had really never seen this mod. I'm glad you guys posted the pics and all. My only other question is how does the thickness of the flag typically affect your ability to get a thumb between it and the scope? I'm sure that this is a bit subjective based on scope diameters and ring height. Would it be feasible to maintain the original thickness and bevel the end (Top Corner) of the flag after bending it to get a better grip and keep the length down? This might keep you from having to weld on unless leverage is the most important issue. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doble Troble Posted September 1, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2005 LC, A bit of a bevel might let you get a thumbnail under it. There are many variables. Its worth a try if for some reason you just want to bend and not forge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlecanoe Posted September 1, 2005 Report Share Posted September 1, 2005 I'm glad you posted this one. I'm kinda thinking of the aftermarket trigger without safety. I don't really like the way the wood looks when it's notched out for a Bold Optima. If I can keep aftermarket trigger pull and original safety it'll be nice and a bit more pleasing to the eye. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doble Troble Posted September 2, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2005 I don't like those side safeties either. The nice thing about the stock safety is that it blocks trigger/sear contact, which seems like a real safety to me. If your modification of the original safety doesn't pan-out, you can always install the Dayton-Traister - so it doesn't hurt to try . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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