Noob with Turk

[Scooter]

Knowing that the Sporterizing bug would eventually hit me, I bought a Turk about 15 years ago.  Glad I did,  but now that I've finally got it bad,...I'm appalled to see that the Mouser supply has dried up.

The barrel was badly pitted (by pitted I mean absolutely ruined for the first 5"), so I cut the barrel back to 19".  Tried my hand at a crown with a file and rotary bit.  That turned out better than I thought it would, but may need a new proper crown.  After that the gun sat in my safe for 15 yrs.

Well the bug has hit me to do this project so I finally got it off to a smith for a safety and headspace check.  He's also going to turn the bolt down for me.  I know that's not whats fashionable these days...but He's set up for it and comfortable doing it.

I plan on drilling and mounting a scope, then see how it shoots before I decide whether to re-barrel or not.   Then go from there.

Sorry I can't provide pics yet...but I'll get some up when I get the gun back.

[Dr.Hess]

I have recrowned a few barrels with a carriage bolt and some automotive valve lapping compound.  They turned out pretty nice, actually.  Steel and stainless steel barrels.  Put the carriage bolt in a drill, put the compound on the bolt, spin it around and work the whole thing around until it gets countersunk.

 

My Turk, I had a 30-06 barrel put on it years ago by Montana Rifleman.  They (he) doesn't do work for us little people anymore.  They are all big time now.

[Scooter]

That's a great idea!   I'm learning already.

I've got the bug bad.  Already thinking about whats next.  Is there anything out there left to build on?  Does Sarco have any actions, or are those all gone?  They show 1893s and 98s.

[Dr.Hess]

I've seen the ads in Firearms News (ex-SGN) from Sarco for 98's and 93's.  Prices aren't exactly bargain, compared to years gone by, but they are there and if I recall, they will sell you a complete action, bolt, bottom, etc.  I recently bought a small ring Chilean at CHKadels.com for 2 bills, antique.  7mm, headspaces perfect, missing the sights. They only had a couple hundred of them and I just happened to stumble over them on the "New" section.  They never even advertised them, and sold out in days.  I haven't decided what to do with it yet.  And the Spanish Mausers are out there too.  They make a nice sporter.  Barrels are usually garbage, but small ring barrels are available.  I have a back order in with Midway now for a small ring 7x57 barrel for $88.  I might need it on a JG Sales Spanish 1916 I bought a year and a half ago.  Barrel is garbage, as with the used barrel I bought.  I have one more used barrel to try, then it gets the new $88 barrel, tapered, not stepped and I'm not sure where they project is heading. 

 

[AzRednek]

If you have the time search gun shows. About a year ago a friend picked up an unfinished US Enfield project for either 80 or 90 bucks. I haven’t seen it but he told over the phone. It looked like previous owner had a few to many reshaping the military stock. Still had the original barrel but he found out later it had been reamed out to 308 Norma Mag. He told me with a chuckle he walked away from a box of genuine Norma brand ammo for 99 and change. More for the ammo than the rifle. He knew I shot and loaded 308 Norma and wanted to buy some brass. After telling him 338 Win Mag brass can be formed to Norma by simply running it through a sizing die I haven’t heard from him since. 
 

Been over a year since I’ve been to a real gun show. I do recall seeing some unfinished projects and some rusty Mausers and Japs. Sharpen your negotiating skills and beat them down. Chances are good the seller has had it for a few years and might be anxious to get rid of it. Look under and behind seller’s tables. They usually have their high dollar stuff taking up all the table top space. There are also a lot of possibilities if you run across a beat up Savage/Stevens model 110. Barrels are easy to change and a $15 (last I looked a few years ago) bolt head  can be easily converted to a belted mag caliber. 

[AzRednek]

On 3/24/2020 at 11:06 AM, Dr.Hess said:

.My Turk, I had a 30-06 barrel put on it years ago by Montana Rifleman.  They (he) doesn't do work for us little people anymore.  They are all big time now.

That’s the same impression I got with McGowen barrels. After Harry McGowen retired and sold out the new owner is just an arrogant prick. He made it very obvious in our phone conversation I was wasting his time. 

[Dr.Hess]

My Turk was my first real gunsmithing project.  I decided to sub the barrel replacement out after realizing I didn't have the tools to do the job and being a student at the time, the funds for the tools.  Montana Rifleman was big in Mauser barrel replacements back then (mid 90's.)  He made his own barrels and sold them outright and installed them.  If I recall, he charged me $200 for the total job, and back then, when you called up you talked to him.  About 8 years ago, I was working on my big target AR project and called up and got someone else who told me they don't sell to the public anymore, only big orders to manufacturers.  He suggested I get a Lilja barrel, which I did, finding one on gunbroker.  Last I read, M.R. was making their own Mauser like action from scratch and maybe selling them to the government, etc.  

[Scooter]

Sorry for the poor quality of the pics.  I never realized how hard it is to get good pics of a rifle.

First I'd like to get it drilled for a scope and see if the barrel can shoot.  So here comes a few questions...

What kind of bases are available?  I've noticed many using a two piece base.  Is there an advantage to that?

Do I need to remove some material (at the stripper clip charging slot)  to allow for the rear receiver mount?  (Seems I read that somewhere).

Also I'd like to shape the forearm tip.  Is there a rule of thumb as to how far back I can cut it?  Or is that up to personal preference?

Any feedback appreciated,

Thanks in advance

 

[Dr.Hess]

Is that stock cracked behind the tang?  They do that when the recoil lug is not fitting right and that's something to fix. 

There are 1 piece scope mounts that will go around/over the charging hump so you don't have to mess with it.  They are not expensive.

[Scooter]

Thanks for the reply.
Yes...there is a small crack.  Good eye!  I'll post a better pic of it tommorow after work.  The plan is to use this stock to learn a little about shaping and finishing using this stock.  Then when I feel I'm ready upgrading to a new stock.

Can you advise on fixing the crack?

 

[Scooter]

I'm guessing bedding might take care of the recoil lug?

[Dr.Hess]

Yes, bedding the recoil lug is how you prevent that from cracking (again).  I use a Devcon product.  Really good stuff, goes on like peanut butter so it stays where you put it.  I'll dig the part number out if you're interested in doing it yourself.  The last Spanish 1916 rifle I bought was cracked there and I bedded the recoil lug with the Devcon stuff, plus other stock repairs.

To fix the cracks, it depends on how bad they are.  It they are not very bad at all, you might get away with using a "super glue" type glue that is very thin and designed specifically to penetrate cracks.  It wicks into the crack.  You just keep putting it in until no more will go.  If the crack is bad, then what I did with the 1916 is drill a hole down the length of the crack from the tang mitered out area at the base where the bottom of the tang meets the wood, take out some wood at the back end of the tang, just a little so there's no touching, push some Devcon down in the holes (I had 2 cracks, one on each side), push a piece of steel (smaller than the hole) down into the holes, put the action back in the stock and let it dry.  Of course, you need to wax the hell out of the action anywhere that the epoxy will touch it and fill any defects in the action with children's modeling clay so there's nothing for the epoxy to grip onto.  Same with doing the recoil lug.  After waxing, I put oil on the action too, just to be sure.  I used surgical tubing to clamp the action to the stock while the bedding is drying.  It's the latest thing.

[Dr.Hess]

Here's my thread where I did some wood work on the 1916:

 

[Scooter]

Finally got a chance to play with the rifle a little.  I've got several questions.

Here are the cracks I've found.  I think some good Crazy Glue should suffice for these.  Any comments?

I'd like to bed the  recoil lug, a few inches of barrel and the tang area.  But there is a lot of goo in there...probably cosmoline.  Is there something I can soak the stock in to remove it without damaging the wood?

Lastly...I used propane to remove the rear sight shroud.  It didn't take as long as I thought it would.  Anyway, I tried to remove the solder using a brass brush while keeping the barrel hot.  I only succeeded in sorta brushing the solder in...like paint almost.   Do I just keep at it?...Will it sand off maybe?

Thanks for comments and suggestions in advance!

 

 

 

 

[donmarkey]

For the stock, easy off oven cleaner. It will pull it down to bare wood. 

[Dr.Hess]

For the cracks at the tang, I had the exact same cracks on my Spanish 1916.  Here it is after fixing it:

 

I drilled down the length of the 2 cracks with about a 1/8" drill bit or so, starting there at the part where the tang ends, then pushed some Devcon into the holes and stuffed a small stainless rod down them.  A tad of Devcon all around the end of the tang cutout, modeling clay in any parts of the tang where it might mechanically stick, natural shoe polish wax on the tang and the hold down bolt, then spray both with some oil for good measure and mount the receiver down into the stock.  Clean it all up with a fine tooth metal file when it dries. I had a crack there at the trigger area also on one of these.  I spread the crack apart very carefully, just enough to work some epoxy down into the crack, then wrapped it up with surgical tubing and let it dry.

 

[Scooter]

I've soaked the stock several times in mineral spirits to get the oils out.   I was fairly satisfied and relieved that it wasn't totally cosmoline soaked.  I did as you on the trigger area which worked fine.  The tang will also get a treatment similar to what you did,  but I'll wait until bedding to do that.

I've got the stock roughed out to the shape I want.  I realize it's going to be pretty Bubba,  but I love it!  Since the pic was taken I've just been sanding sanding and more sanding on both stock and steel.

The hardest part is coming up...Talking the wife into letting me spring for a drill jig for the scope base

 

[donmarkey]

Where are you? Maybe someone can help with the drill and tap. I’m in SE Michigan and could drill it for you in a few minutes on the mill. I dont use a jig.   Or if going to a one piece base, you can superglue it than use a punch to mark the holes. Brownells used to sell a punch sized just for that. But easy enough to grind one out of a pin punch. 

[Scooter]

St. Louis area....don't know any one around here that could help.

Could you expound on that a little.   I'm a mechanic by trade..so I'm not normally shy about drilling and tapping,  but have never done a rifle so don't know the details.  Like, do you drill all the way thru.  Is there a good way to center it on the receiver, since I dont have a way to line it up with the barrel? Will a micrometer do?   Maybe I'm over thinking it.

[donmarkey]

A Mauser has a flat bottom so using a caliper you should be able to easily put the base at top dead center. Just use it as a guide and you will see. If you pull the barrel drill through. It not drill a blind hole in the front ring. I can measure one tomorrow for you to let you know the depth and how far to put the front screw. If you pull the barrel the front screw should be where the hole is inside the lug recess. You can measure this easily if the barrel is pulled. I’ll look for a punch tomorrow. It’s small enough to drop in the mail. 

[donmarkey]

This is my ideal screw placement. See how it misses the lug and is in the recess.

[donmarkey]

See how holding the base on with a caliper will put it at top dead center. This is a punch made to fit the holes. Ignore the partially made homemade base, i didn’t have any factory bases as I make all my own from scratch. 

[donmarkey]

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/punches/hole-center-punches-prod834.aspx
 

link to punches 

[Scooter]

Thanks all.

Zen Master.   I appreciate your warning.  I may make the attempt regardless.  One of my goals with this project is to expand my abilities a little so no pain no gain.  Please post a bold "I told you so!"  if this goes awry!

Donmarkey.  Thanks for the pic with the dimension!  I'll put it to use.

I'm going to have to get eyes on one of these bases to see if I'm comfortable with it.  So is this the right base for my gun?  https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1009232961?pid=699012

[Scooter]

Great pics!  Thanks.   Any idea which punch I need?  If not I'll get the set.