Barrel vise

[bubbamauser]

Check out the archives there was a great post on homemade barrel vises. The wheeler wouldn't budge a yugo for me whatever I did and 3/4 bar stock would have cost me about as much as the b-square on one of Midway special price emails so I got it and the with the rosin the barrel just span off. I would have saved alot of time and money if I would have got this in the firstplace. If you have access to free steel stock the ones in the archive will work. I built one with pieces of steel from a grate about 3/8 thick and the jack just bent it and the barrel just spun.

[goatroper]

So thats what I was hearing,stay with it Kenny you'll get her.I use the B-square vise and really like it,didn't care for the Midway vise at all but get along real good with their action wrench. Good luck ,Jim.

Try aluminum hardware cloth (aluminum screen) inside your bushings, as many wraps as required. Have had good luck with this.

[Sailormilan2]

I use a knock off of a B Square vise, that somebody was making and selling on eBay. Paid about 1/4 of what a B Square would cost. I got the standard set of aluminum bushing for Mauser, military barrel and commercial barrel. But, B Sqaure is awfull proud of their aluminum bushings. So now, I go to the hardware store and buy copper couplers for water lines, at about $1.50 ea. Each has a "ring" around the middle, which is perfect for cutting in half, then I split each half. Copper is soft enough to bend easily and won't mar the bluing. Grips the barrels well too.

[mauserfever]

I made my vise out of 2" square stock but I didn't get around to making the bushings because my lathe went down and I needed parts. I ended up buying five bushings from a man doing business on Ebay with the seller name of WALLYCOOPER. I don't know the man personally but I got the five bushings and the shipping for $29. Try that with Midway or Brownells or anyone else. It looks like he really has a good price on the barrel vises he sells on Ebay too. They look similar to mine, uses the 1 1/2" dia. bushings. He sells the bushings seperate or you can buy the vise with four bushings for a Buy it Now price of $75. Check out item number 7221600425 on Ebay. In my opinion this is a much better vise than the Wheelers. (sorry Wheeler owners) Like I said, I do not know this guy but he treated me right and just thought I would pass this info on to the group. My bushings worked great. Basil

[bubbamauser]

Sign up for the midway account and you will get email every so often with special pricing if you log into there page I got the B square for $48.00 mauser busing $10, I use aluminum conduit bushings and copper fittings for other sizes also and it works fine.Some people get great results with the wheeler but it wouldn't budge a m48 barrel for me with the soaking in pb blaster, heating or rosin. I didn't want to break down and buy another vise after getting the wheeler but when I finally did I had spent alot of time and money (cutting my own blocks so they would be tighter, Building a homemade vise with scrap, relief cuts into the barrel)that I could have avoided with the B-square. And I have to emphasise Be careful with relief cuts I snapped a barrel and destroyed an action this way (the enfield torques on the outer ring but Just for Info a relief cut wont help on a mauser if you ever have the same problem on one it torques on the inside ring, I learned this after the fact.

[Limpid Lizard]

A properly set up military barrel on a 98 Mauser torques on the inner ring. That is the primary torque shoulder. However, not all military Mauser 98 barrels are set up with relief in between the barrel shoulder and the secondary torque shoulder. Furthermore, many models of Mauser do not have two torque shoulders. Many 98's with sporter barrels torque on both shoulders.

One thing I do not need is another project, but I would not be adverse to buying stock and knocking the bolt and bushing holes into several vises. Would anyone be interested in one for the cost of material and shipping? I could cut the bushing holes, and drill the minor and clearance holes in the parts. Each individual would tap his own holes. LL

[manureman]

LL, thanks for the offer it's sure good of you,if I wasn't already fixed up I'd be all over it. Thanks again, Jim.

[Guest Guest_dukhntr_*]

I also had significant problems getting the vise to clamp tight enough. However, on the old board there was a post about removing tight Yugo barrels. This method involved using PB Blaster on the ring, and allowing the action to stand upright for about 24 hours, and then heating the ring slightly with a propane torch, and then dripping candle wax in the threads. Watch the bottom the the area where the barrel screws into the action and keep applying heat until you see candle wax (more like oil). When this happens, a small tap with the hammer and the barrel screw right off. Honest! I took off three Yugo barrels this way one night.

 

 

Hope this helps.

 

Dukhntr

[ken98k]

Sucsess at last!

I finally had time to get back to this project.

I replaced Wheeler"s wood blocks with 2"X2" steel blocks with a 1 3/8" hole between them.

I made a variety of bushings from aluminum pipe and copper pipe split in two lengthwise.

With a little rosin the barrel came out easily.

 

Note;

1. I noticed when I got it off, the barrel only contacted the inner shoulder. The barrel never actually contacted the reciever face.

 

2. If I were to do it again I'd use 1 1/2 steel with a 1 1/4 hole.

 

3. Rosin!!!

 

Thanks for all the input,

Kenny

[z1r]

Kenny,

 

re: Your comment about the inner shoulder, that is as it was supposed to be. It was only intended to contact the inner torque ring. Many including myself have suggested both inner & outer contact. I mainly focus on inner. If the outer lightly contacts I am ok. I try to get it (outer) as close to the receiver ring as possible for mostly cosmetic reasons.