roscoedoh Posted August 24, 2006 Report Share Posted August 24, 2006 JRH, Many have posted good comments advice and I'd like to welcome you to a new madness. This will become addictive as you will learn and soon, you're liable to have a whole safe full of rifles that you want very badly, but don't otherwise need. And there's nothing wrong with that; that's how the rest of us got our start and we don't see anything wrong with that - so neither should you! Sir my only advice I'll offer you was the hardest for me to take - spend the money up front and get what you want now. Hire it done if necessary. I poured money into a rifle that I'm just now happy with and had I just gone ahead and waited a little while longer and got what I wanted then, I would have come out ahead on the deal. Work till your satisfied and do not compromise - even if it takes you longer. The reward will be far sweeter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRH Posted August 25, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2006 spend the money up front and get what you want now. Hire it done if necessary. Roscoe, Thanks for the advice...While I am certainly going to make every effort to do any work I can myself, I completely agree with you that doing it right is most important, (At least for this project) Surprisingly I am having a difficult time finding even basic info on a few of the features I have considered. Primarily the 3 position safety, and even the possibility of adding a straddle floorplate. If anyone can provide any additional insight into having either of these two parts installed I am all ears... JRH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
odies dad Posted August 25, 2006 Report Share Posted August 25, 2006 Have you considered the 2 position Beuhler type safetys? They are pretty easy to install and work great. I modify mine so the bolt doesn't lock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted August 25, 2006 Report Share Posted August 25, 2006 What is it you want to know about the 3 POS safety? Ed lapour's is the best on the market now. Not any harder to install that the 2 position side swing. I like the old fn left side safety myself. Straddle floorplate is easy, if you can find one. Jim Wisner makes them from time to time. Don Markey used to have some for sale, he may still. I have three of Jim's set aside for my projects. Fitting them is relatively easy but you do have to ream new holes. The original pins are 3mm but to ensure a tight fit you use 1/8" pins. I'm sur ethere are other makers. I bet Stuart Satterlee can make one. But, depending on what caliber you want to build a new triggerguard may be more cost effective. Most already come with straddle floorplates. the good ones anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
724wd Posted August 25, 2006 Report Share Posted August 25, 2006 i like this one! http://forums.accuratereloading.com/eve/fo...043/m/162101925 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted August 25, 2006 Report Share Posted August 25, 2006 It's certainly neat but aren't the Hein actions basically Model 70 copies? If they have one that fits a 98 it would certainly dress up a rifle for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRH Posted August 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2006 From Satterlee's Website... Satterlee Arms 1-piece bottom metal cartridge- specific $650.00 Install 3-Position Safety $150.00 I will keep poking around....and see what else I can find as I know Satterlee is a premium name.... JRH I looked at this straddle floorplate a few times. Cost is very reasonable, the question is how much it would cost to have it installed on my gaurd.... http://www.sporterexpress.com/v2/cgi-bin/c...emplate=froogle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRH Posted August 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2006 In addition I was wondering if I could have this instaled in my floorplate at the same time.... FP-RELEASE THIS MAG FLOORPLATE RELEASE LEVER IS DESIGNED FOR THE 1909 ARGENTINE TRIGGERGUARD.... MADE USING AN E.D.M. CUTTER FROM 1018 COLD ROLLED STEEL FOR EASY BLUEING AND METALWORKING... A RAISED RELEASE BUTTON (WHICH YOU CAN CHECKER OR SERRATE) HAS BEEN MACHINED IN AS AN INTEGRAL PART OF THE LEVER...THIS PART IS SLIGHTLY OVERSIZED IN ALL DIMENSIONS TO ALLOW FITTING TO YOUR TRIGGERGUARD.... THE PIVOT PIN HOLE HAS NOT BEEN DRILLED...PIVOT PIN IS INCLUDED. THIS IS NOT A DROP-IN PART...IT MUST BE CUSTOM FIT TO YOUR TRIGGERGUARD.....WILL NOT FIT ON AN UNMODIFIED STANDARD TRIGGERGUARD...A REAL TIME-SAVER FOR GUNSMITHS! .....$19.99 http://www.tngunparts.com/CUSTOMSHOP.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRH Posted August 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2006 Lowtechs price... Install 2 or 3 position safety $90.00 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donmarkey Posted August 26, 2006 Report Share Posted August 26, 2006 From Satterlee's Website... Satterlee Arms 1-piece bottom metal cartridge- specific $650.00 Install 3-Position Safety $150.00 I will keep poking around....and see what else I can find as I know Satterlee is a premium name.... JRH I looked at this straddle floorplate a few times. Cost is very reasonable, the question is how much it would cost to have it installed on my gaurd.... http://www.sporterexpress.com/v2/cgi-bin/c...emplate=froogle I've got drop in floorplates made by blackburn, all you have to do is drill the hinge whole. I could do it for you but you get a nicer fit if you drill the guard and floorplate in one operation. -Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doble Troble Posted August 26, 2006 Report Share Posted August 26, 2006 I've heard nothing but good about Low Tech. Thinking of having someone do this type of work for me is like finger nails on a chalkboard though. Why not just get a Kimber or CZ now, start buying tools and books and preparing to do the Mausers yourself? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRH Posted August 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2006 Thinking of having someone do this type of work for me is like finger nails on a chalkboard though. Why not just get a Kimber or CZ now, start buying tools and books and preparing to do the Mausers yourself? Doble, I could buy a factory model if I wanted....but I am looking for something different in this gun... As a result of where I live what and I do for a living I have the money for these types of projects, but no easy place to do them.(everything is a trade off) That means if I want a semi-custom gun any time soon I will have to go this route. That doesn't bother me, I am fine with that, it just means I have to take a different approach than many folks here are used to. That is why out of respect for those who have the practical knowlegde of this type of work I have come to ask your advice. BTW on a seperate note here are my other guns...certainly not what one would expect for a guy on this site, but I enjoy them all just the same.... JRH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRH Posted August 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2006 I guess I should I point also point out...this triggergaurd is really the source of some issues it really should not be.... For example the reason I was thinking about a new floorplate is the fact that the hing does not sit square with the rest of the floor-plate. It actually looks as if it bent and then redrilled to swing properly. This leads me to another question. If this was supposedly an original Argentinian floorplate should I be able to easily remove the hinge pin holding the floorplate? JRH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donmarkey Posted August 26, 2006 Report Share Posted August 26, 2006 I guess I should I point also point out...this triggergaurd is really the source of some issues it really should not be.... For example the reason I was thinking about a new floorplate is the fact that the hing does not sit square with the rest of the floor-plate. It actually looks as if it bent and then redrilled to swing properly. This leads me to another question. If this was supposedly an original Argentinian floorplate should I be able to easily remove the hinge pin holding the floorplate? JRH If thats the case, you will probably be better of with a wisner's or talley floorplate. They leave the tongue long so you could re-square the guard and then fit the floorplate. The only tools you need is a drill press and a couple good files. So it's something you could do yourself. Unless you want a new guard, I have them but you won't like the price. -Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pedestal Posted August 27, 2006 Report Share Posted August 27, 2006 Thanks Doble, I thought something was up...lol The hex screw was a sure tip off. In fact it looks like that piece needs to be removed and replaced with something a bit longer as it does not provide enough room to swing the hinge as far as it should go without a stuggle. The question becomes whether or not I would be better off starting off with a better floorpiece, or just getting this one fixed? As far as the pitting goes here is a better close up. This shows the absolute worst spot on the whole reciever. In fact this shows most of the pitting on the entire reciever. As for the pitting: get yourself a good Norton whetstone, one of thelarge ones about 8"/10" long. You want a very fine side. You won't use the coarse side. Set the action up in a vise where you can easily move it around. Get your bottle of honing oil and go to work. The secret is keep the stone moving, never use it like a file. The whole idea of using the stone, and not a polishing wheel is to keep the reciever true and square. It goes pretty quick. After ten or fifteen minutes of "honest" work, you'll be able to tell if the pits are truly minor. You'll have to be the judge of if they are too deep to take out with the stone. If they are, then you don't want a high polish on the metal, you'll want a bead blast finish. If they come out, the sky is the limit. Sandpaper on various sizes of wooden dowels work well for the concave surfaces. Again, a caution about polishing wheels. They are REALLY good at screwing up the "lines" of the action, making their own pits and lumps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRH Posted September 4, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2006 My latest progress... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsefly Posted September 4, 2006 Report Share Posted September 4, 2006 JRH,that's a nice clean action you have there.It'll make a dandy rifle.Wish I could find a few as pit free as yours.You done such a good job cleaning it up,you should do more of the work than you planned.It doesn't take as many tools as you think or as much room either.I read once of a gunsmith that had a small cheap rolltop desk in his dorm that he used for a work bench and could find someone that would let him use their vice when needed.The guys on this board helped me gather tools up for gun work,and that's half the fun.I was given a buffer and barrel vise and will never forget them for it,hoping someday I can return the favor.A good set of screw drivers,a brass hammer,punches,a few files and stones,and lots of good sandpaper,and your off to a good start.I use to think that gunsmithing books are important,but this board is much better than books.I wish one of the dudeds on our board would write a book on homemade gunsmith tools.All the way from a bench to a gunrest.I think your off to a great start with the desire and a good action.Jerry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRH Posted September 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2006 Hey Horsefly, Thanks for the encouragement. As I mentioned before, I am capable of this type of work. I just don't have the tools or the space to do it. (As it is I have guns, parts, chrono's etc all over what little space I have left in my place.....) In any case...any good advice on getting a set of files, and a stone? JRH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fritz Posted September 7, 2006 Report Share Posted September 7, 2006 "In any case...any good advice on getting a set of files, and a stone?" z1r can probably help you on this, if I may intercede here. I don't mean to say nobody else can't, but he can I know. fritz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roscoedoh Posted September 7, 2006 Report Share Posted September 7, 2006 z1r may direct you to here. I will comment by saying that you'd do good to buy some good stones like Norton brand and some good files too. I have a 10" and a 12" file that I use to remove crests and charge humps. I have a 6" mill file that I do smaller stuff with. I also have a $2 set of needle files that I found in a hardware store tool bin that are extremely helpful. *I rarely find a real use for my Dremel tool.* Its too easy screw something up with it and too easy to keep things square with files and stones. I don't know that you can have too many files; they're handy buggers when you figure them out. Incidentally, if they bother you, I would bet you could find a good welder to weld those holes up on your magazine box. Dress them flush with a file and a little elbow grease and you'd never know they were there - that's if you don't like them of course. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted September 7, 2006 Report Share Posted September 7, 2006 Thanks Fritz. Here is a link to a thread on our site that has a reprint of that article and some addendums. And, as Flaco pointed out, ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) makes dandy cutting oil for stoning and is much much cheaper than hoing oils and the like. http://www.sporterizing.com/index.php?showtopic=1019 As for files, Jason points out a good assortment to start with. It really all depends on what you want to use them for. I don;t use files for crest removal althoughI do use them, or have, on the rear charger hump. And, as he says, stay away from the Dremel. I've seen more dremeled actions in a friends shop for repair. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRH Posted September 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2006 Update: Well, I purchased a small file set (Mill , round , and half round ), on Friday. In addition to that, and using the few makeshift implements I have been able to create, here is the current state of progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roscoedoh Posted September 10, 2006 Report Share Posted September 10, 2006 I'd say you're coming along nicely. Now that you've dispensed with the charger hump, you'll be able to use FN scope mounts. You also need the bolt handle altered. Are considering having it welded or forged? What type of safety do you plan to use? 2 or 3 position winchster style or FN type? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRH Posted September 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2006 I'd say you're coming along nicely. Thanks Roscoe, As I am progressing I am trying to take one thing at a time. The reality is, every piece of work I can do myself completely changes how I plan on having others do work for me....So, I am trying to finish each step then readressing my plans as I go. (As if working on one action is not going to be enough....I've already dug the hole a little deeper, but I will post more on that later.) Now that I have done alot of the exterior action work, I would like to know more about the interior work I can do....I already polished the extractor and portions of the bolt. This has already made a huge difference as the extractor was rubbing heavily on the receiver and causing the bolt throw to be rather rough...What I would like to know now is. 1). tips and tricks for polishing the raceway.... 2). should I try squaring the bolt face myself... 3). what about lapping the lugs... I know wheeler makes tools for all three of these jobs, are they worth using? Do they produce a quality result? Are they worth buying? JC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roscoedoh Posted September 10, 2006 Report Share Posted September 10, 2006 1) Either buy a boltway polisher and use emery cloth to polish the boltways or glue some small stones to a small rod and use that. Either way, all you want to do is slick up the bolt raceway for smoother operation. 2) You can, but don't really need to. I wouldn't. 3) Don't worry about it. You're not building a target rifle and the action aught to be fine as is. I've got the Wheeler tools that I bought three years ago in a fit of Mauser building and I have yet to use them. If you start lapping the internals, you may end up needing to get the action recarburized. Unless you're prepared to take it that far, all I would worry about is making the action feed smoothly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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