R.Neumann Posted August 8, 2005 Report Share Posted August 8, 2005 Ok gents. I remember on the old board someone talking about shortening and recrowning a barrel. The barrel was done with a carriage bolt and lapping compound I believe. Please correct me if I am wrong Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karlunity Posted August 8, 2005 Report Share Posted August 8, 2005 The barrel was done with a carriage bolt and lapping compound I believe. Please correct me if I am wrong Almost, I would add that you use a brass carriage bolt. Be sure to plug the bore with a patch. Set the barrel in a vise and make sure it is at 180 degrees to the floor. Oscillate the drill and finish off by polishing the muzzle with 1500 paper and rebluing with cold blue than clean the bore and you are done. Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.Neumann Posted August 8, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2005 Almost, I would add that you use a brass carriage bolt. Be sure to plug the bore with a patch. Set the barrel in a vise and make sure it is at 180 degrees to the floor. Oscillate the drill and finish off by polishing the muzzle with 1500 paper and rebluing with cold blue than clean the bore and you are done. Karl 2029[/snapback] Karl, your knowledge and promptness amaze me sir. Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sailormilan2 Posted August 8, 2005 Report Share Posted August 8, 2005 uh, karl, 180* to the floor?? Wouldn't that be parrallel to the floor? I was told set it vetically, which would be 90*. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karlunity Posted August 8, 2005 Report Share Posted August 8, 2005 uh, karl, 180* to the floor?? Wouldn't that be parrallel to the floor? When you put the barrel in the vise, you want the muzzle facing your drill. Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzRednek Posted August 8, 2005 Report Share Posted August 8, 2005 About 6 months or so somebody posted a link with pictures on barrel re-crowning. Anybody have the link?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonthehunted Posted August 8, 2005 Report Share Posted August 8, 2005 steve wagner has this link http://www272.pair.com/stevewag/muzzle/mz.html dont know if thats the same one in question but you can always count on steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MorgansBoss Posted August 8, 2005 Report Share Posted August 8, 2005 Two points I just have to make here; 1. Depends on the radius of the crown but I prefer an apropriate size round head machine screw - a "stove bolt" for those of you my age and more. Brass would be preferable but steel works to. Don't worry about the slot, if anything it seems to help hold the compound. 2. IF you do choose to use a carriage bolt (those fasteners with a smooth rounded head and a square shoulder under the head), be aware that most today have some logo or other raised feature on the head. Smooth this off with a file before crowning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimro Posted August 12, 2005 Report Share Posted August 12, 2005 It's a lower price alternative to buying a crowning tool or having a machinist/gunsmith recrown the barrel. If you have a buddy with a lathe it's a quick job, even I can do it fairly easily. I haven't bothered with the 11 degree crown yet, just straight and uniform so far, but I think I will try 11 degrees on this next barrel. Good luck on your project. Jimro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MorgansBoss Posted August 12, 2005 Report Share Posted August 12, 2005 BTW - I personally use a lap as outlined above to "break" the edge on a new crown even when cut on the lathe. Not necesarily a screw or bolt but a shop-made lap just the same. The last one I did was on a .17Hummer that shot a 5/8", 3 shot group @ 100yds right out of the shop... if that gives any indication of how useful this method can be. I prefer to crown on the lathe to, but have used this method alone many times with very good results. For those without a lathe, if care and patience are exercised, the job can be done quite successfully with hand tools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mimic Posted August 18, 2005 Report Share Posted August 18, 2005 http://www.kylesguns.com/images/after_6.jpg I'll take a picture that focuses more on the crown, but here's a look at the Yugo M-48a that I turned into a scout rifle. Military 8mm barrel cut to 18" with a hacksaw, then filed level and beveled by hand. I did the crowning with a brass screw mounted into a hand drill, and tried to keep the speed to about 150rmp while oscillating in a figure 8 pattern. It took about 15-20 minutes of actual working, using a fine grit grinding compound. You can see more at www.kylesguns.com mimic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bja105 Posted August 18, 2005 Report Share Posted August 18, 2005 Mimic, What scout scope mount is on that rifle? How do you feel the thumbhole stock works for a fast second shot? I'm thinking about a project like yours, and I like the looks of your rifle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mimic Posted August 23, 2005 Report Share Posted August 23, 2005 The scout mount used to be called an Ashley scout mount, now it's called a clifton mount (same thing, just name changes as companies go out of business), and it was about 70 bucks or so. It's actually a tube. You knock off the rear sight, slide the mount down the barrel, and then glue it in place. I used Brownell's Acra-Gel for this, and believe me, it's perminant. I found a site that sells the mount these days, http://www.gunaccessories.com/ExpressSights/scout.asp The Stock is a Richards Microfit Dual Grip thumbhole in brown/brown laminate with a rosewood tip. I think it was around 150 by the time I had them mount the Decelorator and what-not. As for your question about the second shot, I have found that a good thumbhole stock won't slow you down at all. The right side of the stock is very open around the hole, which allows you to move your hand in and out very quickly, even with gloves on. Also, being the 'Dual Grip' model, you can easily skip the thumbhole and just grip over the top, as you would grip a normal rifle stock. A note about the thumbhole, this was my first one and I'll really have to strongly consider going that route on any hunting gun I make from now one. I found with my thumb in the hole and my finger resting up the stock (out of the trigger guard), I can grip, manuver, and control the rifle with one hand. I don't think I've ever found a more comfortable way to hold a rifle in the field. It's great. I had a lot of fun making this rifle. Being my first one, it was a great learning experience for me, and believe me I learned a lot while doing it. I shortened the barrel to 18 inches and went with the forward mounted optics because I wanted a good brush gun that could take a long range shot if it needed to. Being an 8mm, I found that with a 100 yard zero, aiming 2 inches high is enough for a 200 yard shot if needed. To me that's the perfect brush gun, manuverable in the thick trees, fast for a quick moving target shot, with the ability to really reach out there if it has to. Thank you for the complement, and feel free to send me an e-mail if you want more info or pictures, or if you have any questions at all. Mimic, What scout scope mount is on that rifle? How do you feel the thumbhole stock works for a fast second shot? I'm thinking about a project like yours, and I like the looks of your rifle. 2563[/snapback] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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