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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

Rem 700 Barrels


Kyle

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I now know that a Rem 700 barrel can be rethreaded to fit a SR like a Turk M38 but that the threaded section can't be re-threaded to fit a LR action.

 

My question is, why can't you just cut off the threaded section and rethread a new section to fit a large ring mauser action? Even if you lost 2" at most of barrel length you'd still have at least a 24" barrel if you started with a 26" barrel I'd imagine.

 

Is there anything wrong with this solution or would this just need to be reamed out and then it would be ready to go on a LR mauser?

 

 

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Holy crap Madjack,

 

You jump all over me for suggesting .003" clearance between the extractor and breech saying it is too little and then you go and make a statement like this?

 

Yes, cutting the old shank off and then cutting a new one for your particular action is old hat. But, you must make sure that you end up with adequate thickness especially in the chamber area because this is where pressures are greatest. Where you need to be careful, especially with the much wider magnum cases, is where the taper starts. The transition can be rather quick so just make sure you have enough thickness left.

 

Drillings operate at much lower pressure than a "magnum" does. Please show me one drilling chambered in a magnum cartridge.

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My question is, why can't you just cut off the threaded section and rethread a new section to fit a large ring mauser action? Even if you lost 2" at most of barrel length you'd still have at least a 24" barrel if you started with a 26" barrel I'd imagine.

 

Is there anything wrong with this solution or would this just need to be reamed out and then it would be ready to go on a LR mauser?

 

Kyle,

 

I would be not only concerned with the thickness of the steel around the chamber area, but also with whether or not the barrel shank actually had enough steel in it to cut a 1.100" diameter thread. The 30-06 I own wears a fairly heavy Remington 700 sporter barrel and after having it rethread/rechamber to fit the Turk, there's not much left in front of the receiver in terms of barrel diameter. YMMV.

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It can be done, I have one I pulled from a czech action. Even though I never measured it, the chamber walls looked a little thin for my liking. I didn't feel comfortable using it seeing that it is a 7mm rem mag. If you need a cheap barrel a+b and shaw barrels are available, why risk it to save under $50.

-Don

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I measured with a caliper and found that it is indeed wide enough to cut new LR mauser threads. I don't know how much extra metal there should be in the chamber area though. This particular barrel seems pretty thick (I've read that the Rem. 700 mag barrels come thicker then those in standard calibers). Even if I was to cut off the old shank and rethread for the mauser action the beginning of the barrel would still be thicker then the 30-06 stepped military barrel the action currently wears is.

 

The barrel was cheap enough so I guess I'll give it a try, if I mess up it won't be a huge loss.

 

Can anyone please give me the exact information on what I need to thread to in order to fit the large-ring 98 action? I do have a mauser barrel but if anyone had the exact specs already it would be easier. Thanks

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Wow ( Z ) maby the compairason between cutting off the threads and rethreading a remington barrel to fit a mauser action, and the thickness of a drilling barrel was taken wrong? Yes barrels on a drilling are thin, but a remington barrel would still still be quite a bit thicker. In the first post of the thread KYLE said nothing about a magnum cal. Most drillings are in eurapien cal's. and I don't think 9.3x74 is any punk. But Krieghoff offers their double stalking rifle ( over and under )in 7mm mag, and 300 mag. and Holland and Holland offers their double rifle( side by side ) in cal's. from 240 H&H all the way to and including 375H&H up to 700 H&H. Just food for thought.

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Kyle, why not do some practice first? Why screw-up a perfectly good barrel? When you can consistently cut good threads on a practice piece, you're ready for the big-time.

 

First, LR Mausers have the following thread data:

 

12V

1.10 major diameter

.625 Shank length (approx)

 

I'd chuck up a scrap piece of 1.25" round stock steel and play. 4" would be fine.

 

You'll need to measure the depth from the front of the receiver face to the inner torque ring, and add some for "crush" and front ring clearance. 0.005"? Z1r? Your measured clearance + clearance is the shank length.

 

Chuck up the piece in either a 6-jaw or 4-jaw, dial it in to zero.

 

Cut the shank to 1.10 and the proper depth.

 

Setup your threads and speeds and cut-away.

 

I'd cut to about 80%, and with the threaded portion still chucked-up, start testing the reciever onto the threads by hand.

 

You'll want to keep the outside diameter at 1.10. Threads tend to "grow" while cutting (there is some displacement action as well as cutting action). I've found a file helps break some of the moved metal.

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madjack,

 

you are right that Kyle didn't mention a magnum chambering. I must have inferred that from his other post where he was discussing building a magnum with Rem take off barrels.

 

It's nice that Krieghoff is building doubles in magnum chamberings but then again they are doubles and not drillings, aren't they. Again, apples and oranges. More importantly, the actions and thus barrels were built around the chamberings.

 

The 9.3x74R is no slouch but, it is also no magnum, at least not in terms of it's operating pressure. Also, I guarantee that the barrels on those magnum doubles are not as thin as you would have everyone believe. rememberthat on a drilling, typically two of those barrels are shotguns barrels. The rifle barrel is thicker.

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