Guest Scott Posted October 17, 2006 Report Share Posted October 17, 2006 So I've seen remington 700 barrels rethreaded for the small ring turk 98's, can this be done for the large ring 98's like a vz-24? Thanks guys................Scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted October 17, 2006 Report Share Posted October 17, 2006 Hmm, SR shank = .980". LR shank = 1.100", Rem 700 shank 1.062". So, no. Unless you remove the entire shank, and recut a new one where the old chamber was. You may end up with a new chamber area that is awful thin. The caveat is that the area ahead of the shank would have to be at least 1.100" in order to thread it. You don't need a shoulder there but it looks odd without one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Scott Posted October 17, 2006 Report Share Posted October 17, 2006 z1r, thank you for the info. I'm a little nervous about putting a .243 or .270 Rem 700 barrel on a Turk Mauser. I know people do it a lot, but it doesn't make me feel any safer. Thanks again......Scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted October 17, 2006 Report Share Posted October 17, 2006 Scott, please explain your trepidation? I assume you mean the turk 98's which utilize SR threaded barrels? You would be wise to be concerned about attach either barel to a pre-98 action but I wonder why you balk at puuting one on 98? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Guest Posted October 17, 2006 Report Share Posted October 17, 2006 Scott, please explain your trepidation? I assume you mean the turk 98's which utilize SR threaded barrels? You would be wise to be concerned about attach either barel to a pre-98 action but I wonder why you balk at puuting one on 98? I wouldn't be afraid to use a Rem 700 barrel say in .243 win on a German Large Ring 98, but that won't work. As for putting one on a turk in .243.....Well I'm just not that confident in their heat treating and metallurgy. Am I being overcautious? It seems like a pretty big jump in PSI going from 45k to 52/54k. But I do remember kimber rechambering a bunch of swede actions to 243 and 308 and I haven't heard of any of those blowing up yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
724wd Posted October 17, 2006 Report Share Posted October 17, 2006 you could always have it heat treated. that would eliminate your fear that it will blow up, but honestly, it's a 98 mauser. just because it has small ring threads, the rest is all 98. put the 243 in and go! Z really advocates heat treat, and at around $70, it's pretty cheap insurance. or, you could just run it. there have been loads done this way that have never blown up. setback might be an issue, so check the headspace everyonce in a while... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted October 17, 2006 Report Share Posted October 17, 2006 I wouldn't be afraid to use a Rem 700 barrel say in .243 win on a German Large Ring 98, but that won't work. As for putting one on a turk in .243.....Well I'm just not that confident in their heat treating and metallurgy. Am I being overcautious? It seems like a pretty big jump in PSI going from 45k to 52/54k. But I do remember kimber rechambering a bunch of swede actions to 243 and 308 and I haven't heard of any of those blowing up yet. Well, you really didn't answer my question: Is it a 98 or 93? If a 98 then you have all the safety features of it's German brethren. Unlike the springfields where in some early models the actions were made too hard, the turks tendency is toward the softer side. An action never blew up from being soft. In fact, it is softness that keeps these from grenading. However, as 724wd said, setback can be an issue. Excess headspace can lead to case head seperations which WILL detroy an action but luckily the mauser is designed to redirect the escaping gasses and protect the shooter. If you are concerned, do as 724wd said and have it recarburised. Send in several and the cost per receiver goes down. They usually charge for oven time so one or ten the cost is the same. Or buy a true standard 98. But they too can be soft. By the way, those Kimber 243's, We saw a lot of them come through the shop at Lassen, most had setback. Some pretty extreme. I wouldn't want to be behind the trigger when a case lets go in one of those! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Scott Posted October 17, 2006 Report Share Posted October 17, 2006 Well, you really didn't answer my question: Is it a 98 or 93? If a 98 then you have all the safety features of it's German brethren. Unlike the springfields where in some early models the actions were made too hard, the turks tendency is toward the softer side. An action never blew up from being soft. In fact, it is softness that keeps these from grenading. However, as 724wd said, setback can be an issue. Excess headspace can lead to case head seperations which WILL detroy an action but luckily the mauser is designed to redirect the escaping gasses and protect the shooter. If you are concerned, do as 724wd said and have it recarburised. Send in several and the cost per receiver goes down. They usually charge for oven time so one or ten the cost is the same. Or buy a true standard 98. But they too can be soft. By the way, those Kimber 243's, We saw a lot of them come through the shop at Lassen, most had setback. Some pretty extreme. I wouldn't want to be behind the trigger when a case lets go in one of those! They are the small ring model 98's, I bought 5 of them several years ago solely with the intention of re-working them into hunting rifles. Two were so nice I'm leaving them as is. Can you tell me to whom I would send them for heat treating, or do you have a link? At the time I bought them I was thinking I would have to go with custom made barrels, then I saw a few that had Rem 700 barrels and was able to pick up several of those dirt cheap. Thank you again for all the info...............Scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted October 17, 2006 Report Share Posted October 17, 2006 They are the small ring model 98's, I bought 5 of them several years ago solely with the intention of re-working them into hunting rifles. Two were so nice I'm leaving them as is. Can you tell me to whom I would send them for heat treating, or do you have a link? At the time I bought them I was thinking I would have to go with custom made barrels, then I saw a few that had Rem 700 barrels and was able to pick up several of those dirt cheap. Thank you again for all the info...............Scott Please excuse my incessant questioning but these Turks you will find out come in more flavors than ice cream at Baskin Robins. When you say small ring 98's do you really mean small ring 98s or standard 98's with small ring threads? There is a difference and both models exist. The most frequently encountered is the so-called M38 which is marked on the front ring: K.Kale. These are indigenously made and are for all intents and purposes standard LR 98's with the exception that they have small ring threads. Then there is the true small ring 98 turk whose front ring measures 1.310" but it is threaded to accept large ring barrels. these are reworked Kar98a's. These are less desirable. Blanchards or Industrial Heat Treating of SLC, UT. Either can and do heat treat mausers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scott Posted October 18, 2006 Report Share Posted October 18, 2006 Please excuse my incessant questioning but these Turks you will find out come in more flavors than ice cream at Baskin Robins. When you say small ring 98's do you really mean small ring 98s or standard 98's with small ring threads? There is a difference and both models exist. The most frequently encountered is the so-called M38 which is marked on the front ring: K.Kale. These are indigenously made and are for all intents and purposes standard LR 98's with the exception that they have small ring threads. Then there is the true small ring 98 turk whose front ring measures 1.310" but it is threaded to accept large ring barrels. these are reworked Kar98a's. These are less desirable. Blanchards or Industrial Heat Treating of SLC, UT. Either can and do heat treat mausers. z1r: They are the so called M38 with the small ring threads and marked K.Kale. The "indigenously made" part is why I'm apprehensive. I think I will send them for a re-heat treat and then try the Remington barrels. I also have a "98k" style turk with bent bolt, stock cutout for bolt handle, shorter barrel with front sight ears, is that one of the Kar98a's? The front ring on it measures 1.310 but I can't tell what kind of thread. This is not one of the rifles I bought to re-work. The receiver end of this barrel measures the same as a VZ-24 barrel, but I'm pretty sure the SR barrels measure the same at that spot too, they are just turned down on the threaded part. Not sure why I have it, it was an impulse buy. Thank you again for the information.........................Scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted October 18, 2006 Report Share Posted October 18, 2006 Scott, with heat treat the Turks will serve you well. they may not be a refined as the german or czech receivers but they are remarkably true. Better than the current crop of Yugoslav commercial imports. here is a Turk with 700 bbl I made. My dad likes it just fine. and it shoots great. Everyone else has seen this one a dozen times so I appologize to them. But, it shoots better than the 700 the barrel came off of, lol. I'm not into sporting the Kar's but would like one for my collection. They have their drawbacks, anyone doubting that should ask, "why did the Germans stop making them if they were so great?" Nice rifle you have. If you ever want to unload it let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roscoedoh Posted October 18, 2006 Report Share Posted October 18, 2006 Here's a photo of my 30-06 that I built on a Turk: It wears a rethreaded Remington 700 barrel that I paid my 'smith a little extra to time the sights to 12:00 and its throated for heavy bullets. I had it parkerized for foul weather endurance and it wears a B-Square weaver rail mount for versatility. It is an honest accurate rifle and the $65 eBay barrel turned out well. I've got 75 rounds to shoot between now and the 28th, but I'm not sure it will stop raining long enough for me to sight the rifle in between now and then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sailormilan2 Posted October 18, 2006 Report Share Posted October 18, 2006 Here are my Turks, a 1938 rebarreled to 35 Whelen, and a 1903 with a rethreaded Rem. 700 barrel in 308 Win. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Guest Posted October 18, 2006 Report Share Posted October 18, 2006 Here are my Turks, a 1938 rebarreled to 35 Whelen, and a 1903 with a rethreaded Rem. 700 barrel in 308 Win. Guys, those are all very nice looking rifles, you really can be proud of those! I have two more questions: z1r, who makes the stock you used? Sailormilan2: What is the grey looking finish on those rifles? Thank you all for the information...............Scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sailormilan2 Posted October 18, 2006 Report Share Posted October 18, 2006 The grey finish is KG Coatings Brushed Stainless Steel. It is a bake on paint finish to apply to firearms. Sandblast first, spray it on, bake it for 1 hour at 350* and you are done. I really like the finish. It is a hard smooth finish, a couple of shade lighter than the dark grey Ruger uses on its guns. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted October 18, 2006 Report Share Posted October 18, 2006 Richard's made that stock but like all their stocks I have used it is highly modified. Mostly consisting of shortening the fore end, removing the 45 degree tio and putting on decent 90 degree tip, and slimming the club down to a respectible size. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
albertashooter Posted October 19, 2006 Report Share Posted October 19, 2006 Going back to the original posting,what do you guys think of using a bushing over the original barrel shank and threading it to LR. Would probably have to rethread the original shank to something like 15/16 x 20 and make a bushing that was threaded to match. Loctite on and then cut your LR threads. Any opinions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donmarkey Posted October 19, 2006 Report Share Posted October 19, 2006 Going back to the original posting,what do you guys think of using a bushing over the original barrel shank and threading it to LR. Would probably have to rethread the original shank to something like 15/16 x 20 and make a bushing that was threaded to match. Loctite on and then cut your LR threads. Any opinions. The chamber would be too long, rem 700 use a encased bolt head. You can rethread a heavier rem barrel for a 98, you have to cut the original shank off and thread it like a blank. Your chamber will be really short and will take alot of reaming. -Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad_jack Posted October 21, 2006 Report Share Posted October 21, 2006 A 98 turk sure makes a fine sporting rifle, I've built 4-5 of them latley. Some guys don't like the look of the crest on the top of the action but by the time you scope it it cann't be seen. I have one in .35 whelen improved, and it does great, It got me 2 deer at 350-400 yards. My latest is a 7-08 imp. I posted pic's a couple of weeks ago. As far as hardness you can take it to you'r local machine shop and have it tested but I don't think you'r going to have a problem. I'd say go for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted October 21, 2006 Report Share Posted October 21, 2006 It's a pretty simple matter to remove the crest. Why cover it up with mounts when you can make it disappear? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad_jack Posted October 22, 2006 Report Share Posted October 22, 2006 True you can remove the crest, But as I scope most all my rifles it's hidden anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sailormilan2 Posted October 22, 2006 Report Share Posted October 22, 2006 Turks have a tendancy to have deeply stamped Crests, which makes them a little harder to remove. I don't like removing metal unless I am forced to. My 308 Win on a 1903 Turk has the edges of the crest sticking out from under the scope base. That is one I may have to fix. I have 98/22 that I saved the crest on, which was a mistake. The rear bridge is off enough to make scoping a problem. If I use standard 98 mounts, the front base was too low, by a bunch. If I use a small ring base up front, then the front base was higher, but it wasn't off as much as the standard base. I ended up shimming the rear to get it on. Now, maybe my scope will work right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racepres Posted October 22, 2006 Report Share Posted October 22, 2006 I ended up shimming the rear to get it on. Now, maybe my scope will work right. Only a M48 I have has Not required a shim, or other alignment "adjustment" I think it is the "nature of the beast". MV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donmarkey Posted October 22, 2006 Report Share Posted October 22, 2006 Only a M48 I have has Not required a shim, or other alignment "adjustment" I think it is the "nature of the beast". MV That's why I usually re-fit my bases in the mill with a fly cutter and lap the rings. The only time I don't is when using 1pc. bases. -Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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