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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

Ball End Mills


manureman

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z1r I asked you about what was needed for opening up the rails on my 7mag project and you replyed ball end mills ,what size or sizes do you recomend?I don't own a single one and need to order some other plunder and thought I'd just get them at the same time if possible. Thanks Jim

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Jim,

 

I'm at a disadvantage since I'm not at home but 5/16" comes to mind. You want the radius to be about what is already on the underside of the bolt raceways. Study where the 8mm shoulder is in relation to the curvature down there and then compare to where the shoulder of the magnum case is. This will guide you as to where you want to remove metal. go slow.

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I've done several mag. mausers, and never had to ( open the rails ) so to speek. All you need to do is use a cratex tip on you'r dremel tool and round the edges of the rails without taking any off the width. That way if you want to change back later you can. All yopu need are some dummy rounds loaded to check the feeding till you'r done, I usually make about half a dosen.

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Mad Jack,

 

Have you ever actually gone back? I'd like to see how that is done. You have to open things at the front of the receiver by the feed ramp because the magnum case is wider than the opening.

 

Compromises rarely, if ever, give you the best of anyof the options. I'd want 100% reliability when it comes to feeding. I can't see how this method would give it in either case. Sounds less than ideal.

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Beleave it or not my belted mags. feed as smooth as the stock millitary rifles do. Never fail to pick up and chamber. That was one of the tricks we learned in the 3 year gunsmithing program at Trinidad State Jr. College. Remember always leave you'r self a way out. You may want to change back from a magnum down the road, and a little to much is way too much with the milling machine and the action won't hold anything.

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Mad Jack,

 

This is the exact opposite of everything I have heard, so you've got my interest. I believe your right because I opened up a 98 for a magnum and it really seemed that it wasn't necessary just the bevel you spoke of would work.

 

Can you post a picture or more details on the bevel

 

Thanks,

 

Roy

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The 240 Weatherby is damn near the same as a 30-06 case. Not what most consider a belted mag, meaning not the same base & belt dimensions as the H&H.

 

As for this going back to -06 sized cases after altering for mangums if they work its because the action was not properly altered in the first place. Hell, even the great Mauser Werks made each action specific to the cartridge it was intend to use. The closest to what you are talking about is the Zastava actions which use identical bottom metal for (short) magnum and standard cartridges. If you look carefully at the rails and compare to a milsurp you'll notice there is quite a bit of difference. I've also noted more tendency for rounds to pop up on these actions than any other. And this tendency in unaltered actions.

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Is it going to hurt to try some dummy rounds before he starts cutting with the ball end mill. I'd try first and see where I was. You can take more off but you sure can't put it back on. riceone.

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Is it going to hurt to try some dummy rounds before he starts cutting with the ball end mill. I'd try first and see where I was. You can take more off but you sure can't put it back on. riceone.

No that's exactly what you should do! If not how are you going to know where and why to adjust.

-Don

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Actually it's a great idea. Then you can see where the round will stick in an unaltered action. Just as the cartridge comes out of the well about 1/2" in front of the feedramp where it is narrower than the case.

 

All sarcasm aside, Don said it, how else will you know when all is right. Dummy rounds are a must when checking feeding.

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Aint nothin ever simple is it ? I'm at a stand still on my 7 mag,first I farted around and let Midway sell out of the bolt face cutter that Don spoke so highly of so I just ordered the lathe bit from Brownells....well I made my set up and no more than just kissed the bolt with it and the darn carbide poped off and hung between the bit and the bolt face and cut one heck of a mudgutter in it !@*#!!!...another piece for the scrap pile,oh well I got other bolts.Midway has said next week for the last 2 weeks and today just added 3 more weeks to the date they expect to have em' back in.And its been 3 weeks since I mailed Lothar Walther a money order ,but can't do anything with a barrel till I get a bolt.It's probably better this way,if I had the stuff I'd be trying to get it done for deer season,now there won't be any rush.I've already tried feeding some factory Remington fodder through the action with a stripped standard bolt ,the rounds hang at the shoulders where the top sides of the rails narrow down at the ramp ,just about at the same time they want to hang up in the rear because the bolt face isnt opened yet...But I'm lovin all the advice cause Lord knows I NEED it,so please keep it coming. Thanks Jim

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Jim,

 

Don't toss that bolt send it my way. I'm looking for parts like that to section for when I gear up to make actions in 2008. That's the plan at least.

 

I wouldn't worry to much about this whole business about switching back from a magnum?

Why, because the action right now is the cheapest part of the rifle. You can replace it cheaper tha you can convert back. At a minimum you'd need a new bolt, then, a barrel (can't use the magnum barrel, can you?) that will have to match the carefully inletted stock you have. All in all, easier to build a new rifle. Do yours right, make sure it feeds 100% and enjoy.

 

Make your dummy cartridges the max length you anticipate you will ever use. Also make up dummies in various lengths and with bullets you plan on using. Cuz some bullets will be shorter when seated properly. You may find that if you set things up with spitzers but later want to use Round nosed bullets, they may not feed. Best to check things now.

 

 

-Mike

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Jim, the cutter I bought chipped but it still works fine. I feed it too fast, see what happens when you're in a hurry. It still works but I was going to order another one anyway. You want me to send it to you? Don't toss that old bolt if Mike doesn't want it, you could use if to pratice on with bolt handles or weld it up to make a .223.

-Don

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Well Skeeter has got me thinking on a 240 Wheatherby now,been rolling the idea of a hot 6mm around for a while and never once thought about that one.Z if I'd had any idea that you would have wanted that bolt I'd of been more than glad to send it to you but it has been turned into a top link pin on the three point hitch or the Japanese version of a 3 point anyhow on a little Yanmar tractor and tiller I just bought to till in the turkey houses with and is now past the point of no return as I ground the lugs(all 3) and the guide rib off .But it is the coolest looking hitch pin I own, sorry but I'll sure keep you in mind as I'm bound to mangle more stuff.Sure hope your plan fo 08' works out,I'd be very interested in hearing your plan,if you can share it with us,but understand that sometimes a man has to play those things pretty close to his chest too...Don I don't hardley know what to say about your offer but thanks!But be warned I know the same as nothing about machine tools and have more than once tore an anvil to pieces in a sand pile with nothing but a rubber hammer, I'll return it to you as soon as I'm done and reimburse you the postage.Should I break it I will replace it,or send you the funds to cover the cost of replacing it what ever you prefer.I'll pm you my address and thanks again Jim.

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Now I'm gonna toss some .. doo doo in yer game. Check the case capacity and ballistics of the 240 Wby vs the 6mm-'06. Even I, of the humble skills, can build a 6mm-'06. I like mine very much.. Gotta reload tho!. MV

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The .240 and 6mm-06 are both nice hot little rounds. I might go for the 6mm-06 if I had to do it again. The Weatherby brass is very expencive but you don't have to make your own (not sure if anybody makes 6mm-06 rounds).

You can be sure that I do!!!! Seriously though It does seem to be a handloaders only proposition! Not really an advanced type wildcat... Just start w/ 25-06 brass and it is an easy neck down to 6mm .. even if all you have is 6mm rem die, I don't lose too many cases. They are best after fireforming, and using a neck size die, mine is a Hornady but I dont guess it is critical at all. MV

edit; Forgot to mention that it feeds flawlessly w/ 0 alterations!

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Never tryed any of the new light lead. 15 or more years ago my dad got his hands on some 50 or 55gr lead. They were awesome on Crows and Groundhogs. I use the .240 for groundhogs at 250-350yard ranges. The loads are right up to max for nice flat shooting. If I were to do alot of pd or target shooting I would back the loads down to increase barrel life.

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Sorry, The lightest I have used are the 60 gr. sierra. I do not load to all out max anymore in anything! Wuss ya know, and this particular barrel was not cheap! my barrel is a fairly slow twist, and therefor doesn 't like bullets heavier than abt 80-85gr, and I use the hornady 70 gr Match King more than most, as it works best accuracy wise. Yes I know that there are more terminally effective projectiles, but at the velocities obtained w/ the 6-'06, I have not had problems w/ bullet performance! Guess I'll work on the lighter pills some more one day, but ... too many projects ya know. MV

Wish I could remember where I wrote the twist rate of this barrel at,CRS!! But I recall that it was slower than the normal 243, probably closer to the original 244/6mm Rem.

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