Changing Turk Thds To Large Ring

[Ron J]

Has anyone bored out a Turk thread and re-threaded to large ring threads? I posted about my Turk thread problems in January. Limpid Lizard and a few others chimed in. I believe the threads are too far off to just re-chase. If I have to make the fixtures and all, why not just put large ring threads in? It would probably be easier.

Ron

[cold shot]

Has anyone bored out a Turk thread and re-threaded to large ring threads? I posted about my Turk thread problems in January. Limpid Lizard and a few others chimed in. I believe the threads are too far off to just re-chase. If I have to make the fixtures and all, why not just put large ring threads in? It would probably be easier.

Ron

hey ron, dave here.i had been talking with hore trader about stuff like that on email. give him a jingle. if he don't , he might know someone that does. hope this helps you .later guy.!

[horse trader]

ive never did internal threads on receiver before but i was thinking,i wonder instead of large ring going with a rem.700 barrel thread not quite as big not much difference at c ring coming out im sure it could be done but if there not out century and sog have turks missing bolts that would be alot cheaper.

[Ron J]

I'd toss it if I hadn't done so much handwork cleaning it up. Besides I have access to a lathe and other than making the fixture there won't be any money spent. I thought about the Rem thread size. I'm not sure what the minor diameter should be, but I'm close to .992" on my threaded plug so it's at least that big inside. I was more curious about anything I don't know as there has been alot of that with this thing.

[donmarkey]

If you are single pointing it, what difference does the thread size make. Just clean out the old threads and rethread what's left and make a barrel to match. I know easier said than done.

-Don

[z1r]

Well said Don, if you can single point internal threads then surely cutting threads on the barrel shank will be a simple task.

[milsurpcollector]

You would be better off using a tap than trying to thead a receiver on a lathe.

 

Making a fixture for a mauser with that square lug on the bottom would be challenging, not to mention that many turk receivers do not have the threads centered.

 

There would be alot of variables, thinking about all of them would make my head hurt.

 

It is much easier to rethread a barrel than to rethread a receiver.

 

Steve Acker made a jig to rethread a rem 700 but I think the quality control at remington is better than it was at the Turkish state arms factory.

[Ron J]

Don, Z,

The benefit of going lg ring mauser thd is that we made tools for lapping inner torque shldr, bolt face and a spring loaded deal that pushes the bolt while lapping lugs. All fixture by the threads and we made them for lg ring a while ago. I really just wanted to run the idea by the crew in case I was setting myself up for some other headache. This group would know.

 

Milsurp,

You ain't lying about making my head hurt. I've thought about this way too long. But even if I was going to use a tap it needs to be bored out first and 2 taps would be needed. I don't think a small ring thd tap is going to straighten this out. It's pretty drunk. The barrel will have to be about .016" smaller than the recvr (pitch dia) to hit the shoulder square. Seems awful sloppy to me, but I'm way more familiar with threading than rifle receivers. I will try to figure out if it is off center though - thanks for the warning.

[ken98k]

Brownells has a Rem 700 "piloted" reciever tap.

I think it goes for about $275

[48mauser]

I don't have any real set up experience but could you turn a mandrel to fit in the receiver threads and the bolt ways?Then use it to index from to set up in a four jaw chuck. Remove the mandrel, drill, ream and cut new threads. Paul P.

[Bennypapa]

I don't have any real set up experience but could you turn a mandrel to fit in the receiver threads and the bolt ways?Then use it to index from to set up in a four jaw chuck. Remove the mandrel, drill, ream and cut new threads. Paul P.

 

 

I was thinking along those lines too.

You could also mount the reciever to a mounting block mounted in the 4 jaw

 

I cannot picture how to mount the reciever without it being mounted to a block but the mandrel seems the way to go for centering and alignment.

 

Keep us posted.

[albertashooter]

IF I was going to make a fixture for the lathe to hold a receiver I would build something like this

 

http://www.gtrtooling.com/prod05.htm

 

but I would build it to thread directly on the spindle instead of using a 4 jaw assuming of course that your lathe has a threaded spindle.

As a alternative approach make a piloted tap using the lathe. You could really do it right and make, taking a page from doble troble, also make a piloted reamer to clean out the old theads and open up the hole to the root size of whatever thread you pick.

[hodgie]

im with alberta on this one. i would make a tap. not very hard to do. though i like the challenge involved in make a jig to hold the receiver!

[z1r]

I would single point the threads. Not much would need to be done to bring them in line. The key is to properly align everything to the bolt bore. Your typical screw in mandrel is not the answer for aligning things.

 

A friend had Dave Kiff at PTG make him a piloted tap like those used on the rem 700s. Pretty pricey though at $250 a pop.

[Ron J]

Thanks for all the ideas. We're so busy at work (good thing) I haven't been forum reading much.

 

Hodgie, I don't have a clue how to make my own tap and 200 + is not worth a 70.00 recvr. I'll scrap it first. In Cleveland, Turks are 69.95, 47's + 48's are 100 - 150, VZ's are 200 - 250 and German 98's are 300.00. When you deal with threads issues 10 hours a day for a living, fixing recvr thds as a hobby just doesn't cut it. After this, I wouldn't take a boxcar full of Turks for free, delivered.

 

z1r & Albertashtr, the sleeve fixture in the post may be the ticket and that's what we'll try. But trust me, locating the existing threads and cleaning up won't be enough. Best I can measure they are already so torn in the crests, they won't clean up by boring to 1.00". There will be approx .020" deep spiral still left. However it was threaded, the lead speed of the cut was exceeding the lead of the thread. They are like Acme threads in the root. And not consistent in helix.

 

The goal is to bore to lg ring dimensions, thd 1.100 - 12 with a 55 deg bit. Make it standard Mauser. I just need to brush up on internal thd cutting in blind holes. Been a while.

 

Thanks to all for the help. I'll post what happens, but it'll be April sometime. For now, I'm getting ready for a 2 day ISO-9000 audit for re-accreditation of my lab. Lots to do.

Ron

[hodgie]

 

 

i guess thats where i lucked out, my boss has every toool makers accreditation ive ever heard of, and we have a couple of special grinders. so he actually worked with me on a small ring tap. but i certain ly understand where you're coming from. best of luck.